Greetings, In December of 2019 and January of 2020, I visited the nation of Vietnam. While there, I made a special effort to see the Vinh Moc Tunnels. The Vinh Moc Tunnels are often considered the best preserved Vietnam War tunnel system that exists today. Unlike the better known Cu Chi Tunnel System, which was created primarily by and for military use by military personnel (I am including the Viet Cong as military personnel ), the Vinh Moc Tunnels were created primarily for civilian use. They were intended as a system for safe and hidden transportation and safe shelter during the frequent American bombing raids. (There doesn't seem to be too much easily available on the web about the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Therefore, with a recognition of all its faults and weaknesses, I offer this link to wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/V%E1%BB%8Bnh_M%E1%BB%91c_tunnels )
The author, in the tunnels
In this post, I will focus on the preservation, maintenance, and upkeep aspects of the Vinh Moc tunnels. The "museum side" of things. While I am not a museum professional, and would welcome feedback from those who are, I hope to give enough information here to give some sense of how a relatively recent historical site in a developing nation is maintained.
I hope to do a few posts on my day at the tunnels. Perhaps I'll also be able to get out some old photos and can share images of the current Cu Chi tunnels (which are not, according to the Lonely Planet Guidebook, either completely authentic or accurate but do give an interesting feel for what the tunnels were like. In my opinion, both tunnels are well worth visiting if you have the time.)
Visitors Facilities
The Vinh Moc Tunnels does have two buildings for visitors. Both are relatively primitive but informative.
There are two museum type buildings to welcome visitors. This is the one closest to the entrance. It is used primarily to show a film about the site and its history. The film was in Vietnamese but it did have English subtitles.
Behind the site, next to the public bathrooms, chickens graze on the lawn.
There is a 2000VND fee to use the restroom and a person sits there to collect it. This is less than 10 cents.
Along the public walkway, there are many vendors stands that sell drinks and snacks.
The vendors call to visitors as they pass. "Hello, you wanta buy something?"
Modern, generally good quality walkways have been added for visitors.
More chickens on one of the less well paved, side routes for the complex.
The tunnels were originally built as bomb shelters for the local civilian population who were subjected to frequent, intensive bombing campaigns by the American Air Force. This is a display of some of the different kinds of ordinance that was dropped on the region. My understanding, and I do not have details at this time, is that one challenge in opening the site for tourism was unexploded ordinance and how to disarm it.
Another shot of the ordinance monument / display,
Just a photo of a nearby farm house that borders on the tunnel area. I am not sure if there is any connection between the people who live inside (or their chickens) with the monument itself.
Entrances
The tunnel complex had many entrances. Historically these entrances were often kept concealed and hidden from view, something that is not desirable when tourists and other visitors come. Also, my suspicion is that the entrances were some of the most vulnerable parts of the system, most prone to collapse, and needed to be given extra reinforcement and structural support. Additionally the tunnel entrances are now used by many people every day of the week all year long, and, probably, ironically, see much more traffic than they did when the system was used a s
Obviously the entrance has been reconstructed and in a more reinforced and sturdy fashion than the original.
This portion of the tunnel entrance has been reinforced with wood, something that I am quite certain never occurred with the original. If memory serves me right, I do not think that such supports were here the first time I visited in 2007. Notice the stairs heading down.
While clearly a substandard picture, notice the two boards that cross the tunnel entrance. While easily bypassed, these are meant to warn and deter vistors that this area of the tunnel is not intended for unescorted visitors on their own. Later, with a guide ( a story that I will share in a different post ) I got to visit this area of the tunnel.
Another rebuilt tunnel entrance. This one also have a cross bar indicating that it should not be entered by unescorted visitors.
Another entrance with wooden reinforcements.
Wooden reinforcements that show a crack in the wood and concrete reinforcements on the other side. Notice the Vietnamese language graffiti. This was not uncommon in the tunnels.
Another tunnel entrance, this one on the side of the area that borders the ocean.
Electric Lighting
I do not believe the electric lights here were part of the original tunnel system. I believe that instead home made lanterns using oil and candles hung on the wall were a major part of the system but there may have been other parts of the tunnel available as well.
This is what the original lighting looked like. It was made out of an old bottle, perhaps one discarded by the American forces.
Internal Tunnel Maintenance
Inside the tunnels there was a lot of reinforcement of the walls being done with concrete. Here are a few photos to show such work.
The tunnel ceiling. My guess is that there is a plan to cover this with wood. Notice the bricks. I do not believe that these were used much in the original tunnels.
A rebuilt tunnel entrance made entirely of concrete.
Now this is particularly interesting. In one part of the tunnels, an area not normally open to unescorted visitors, a metal sheet covered with the red, muddy clay of the tunnels covered part of the tunnel. Down the side I could see extensive digging, and a deep, unsafe looking tunnel that went down to who knows where. Of course, I had to ask, and my guide told me that under the metal sheet there was a bomb shelter from the war days.
Of course, with all this concrete work being done, one must have wheelbarrows,
and I found a pair of them, covered with concrete in a cubby hole on the side of the tunnel.
Why waste time each day bringing them up and down, into and out of the tunnel each night?
Tourist Signs
One can't have a historical site open to the public without at least a few signs, can you?
I'm not sure if this is historically sound or if it is a modern restoration and preservation work, but there are drainage ditches next to the tunnels.
Finally, a couple photos of yours truly, the author,
exploring the tunnels
A Vietnamese language travel video on the tunnels
Books for Sale
(just FYI, at this time, I am straightening out an issue with Amazon. So I won't actually get credit if you buy any of these books --except, of course, the books by me at the end, but the first five won't get me anything or support this blog. Nevertheless, they are all excellent books and I enjoyed them all.)
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books by me. If you really want to support this blog,or enjoy it and wish to see what else I've done, please check this out. Thanks.
A friend of mine, someone more fond of painting figures than researching them, recently purchased a large quantity of 15mm Aztecs and other Meso-American figures from the same period. One day he sent me an e-mail saying, "Why is this Aztec veteran warrior (essex 15mm figures I believe) sporting a large chicken on his head?"
As you can see, in the top row, second, from the right, is a man with "a bird on his head."
In 15mm scale, this large bird could easily be mistaken for a chicken.
Well, I can't resist that sort of question so . . . here's some of what I uncovered while seeking an answer to the question.
Apparently the figure was not an Aztec but a Tlaxcalan (different ethnic group that fought the Aztecs and allied with the Spanish) and it represents "quetzol totol" sometimes written as "quetzoltotol" (who is apparently different from "quetzelcoatl" (sp?) and I forget the whole thing but you may recall that the Mexican flag shows an eagle killing a snake and I think it's tied in with that whole story somehow ("quetzelcoatl", as you should know from your ancient astronaut shows if nowhere else) is the winged serpent of Meso-American mythology. (Remember, this was written off the cuff. If I were going to do extensive research on these people, I'd try to develop more of an understanding of their philosophies.)
Cool and Useful Links for Wargamers
An archived copy of a portion of an on-line Wargamers Guide to Aztec Armies and gaming
If someone is able to help me out and track down the author, that would be great.
If you buy these books using these links, you support this blog. I have read the bulk of the books below (I have not read "Aztec Warrior -1325-1521" or "Aztecs and Conquistadores" but feel confident recommending Osprey products on this subject) and highly recommend the ones I have read.
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books by me. If you really want to support this blog,or enjoy it and wish to see what else I've done, please check this out. Thanks.
This is another set of old wargaming pictures. Displayed are photos of a French and Indian War battle played at someone's house. Two of the players have careers based in knowledge of history, one being a retired museum curator, the other a social studies teacher.
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books by me. If you really want to support this blog,or enjoy it and wish to see what else I've done, please check this out. Thanks.
This has been sitting here unfinished for a while, and it seems time to put it up. To give some quick background, miniature gaming, a.k.a. miniature wargaming, is a hobby where people play games designed to recreate or simulate historical battles. These come in a variety of flavors, sizes, and degrees of complexity.
Bolt Action is a set of rules used to recreate World War Two conflict where one figure represents on man or vehicle. The rules are quite popular and well supported with a large range of 28mm scale figures for a variety of nations although, naturally, any historical figures in this or a similar scale can be used. The rules are quite playable, meaning that they do not get too bogged down in complex or unnecessary detail, yet, in my experience, the tactics that worked in the field of battle during the war also work on the tabletop so I like them, although I should probably mention that I've only played the game about half a dozen times.
A couple years ago at the Schenectady Wargamers Association monthly gameathon, a large multiplayer game of Bolt Action was played, intended to simulate what the Normandy landing was like. Here are some photos of the game.
FINALLY
books by me. If you really want to support this blog,or enjoy it and wish to see what else I've done, please check this out. Thanks.
